Seed or transplant for Fall

Now is the time to finish seeding or transplanting 50 to 60 day crops to mature in Fall. We just finished installing kale, red and golden beet transplants (photos). Even though it's hot now, these crops and others including lettuce will grow and be of good quality as they mature in cooler fall temperatures.

Planting a second crop where spring crops leave "vacancies" increase yields from a given square footage of soil during a growing season. Rotate crops and don't plant same family plants such as kale following cabbage. We planted beets following lettuce and cabbage, and kale following beets.

This higher demand on garden soil is equivalent of a full season crop such as tomato or potato. It requires adequate organic matter and fertility to meet the needs of the second crop so do be sure your soil is prepared to handle succession planting.

Photo credit: Transplanted kale, red beet, golden beet - all Carl Wilson

Hail recovery hope

To encourage those with gardens struck by hail, this post features pictures from a previous year's hailstorm. While chances of recovery depend on the extent of the damage, plants can surprise. Fruiting vegetables always seem to sustain the worst damage, particularly the big-leafed vegetables like squash and pumpkins. Roots escape underground and regrow. Leafy vegetables generally come back.

These photos of tomatoes and straightneck summer squash are from a July 21 hailstorm. White hailstones are visible in tomato photo. Click on photos to see enlarged view.



The photos below show plants August 17, about a month later. The Yellow Taxi tomato is sparse and shows hail-nicked foliage but did ripen fruit. The summer squash put on an amazing amount of growth and more fruit.

Photo credit: All five photos in post - Carl Wilson

Use of Mid-summer Transplants

While many people think of transplants as only a May start-of-season planting technique, they can also be useful in midsummer for planting crops for fall harvest. In midsummer you don't even need a greenhouse to grow them!

There are always two ways to plant - direct seed or transplants. Mid-July is a rough date to have 50 to 60 day vegetables direct seeded to mature for fall. Using this target date, you can plan whether transplants or direct seeding will best work in your crop scheduling following spring crops.

Perhaps you have a crop growing that won't be harvested in the end of July and direct seeding another would not allow it to mature before frost. Answer is grow transplants. Or perhaps you have difficulties directly seeding the garden because of wind and sun, soil crusting or other physical soil condition, inability to frequently water to germinate seed, garden pests on young seedlings or whatever reason. Transplants may work better for you.

Growing transplants in pots placed on the ground (or bark mulch) as pictured works well. Floating row cover fabric thrown over the pots and tucked under the trays conserves water and helps seeds to germinate. Remove when seedlings have begun to develop true leaves or leave on to protect from birds and insects. Grow for 4 weeks or so and you are ready to gain a jump on the fall harvest season by transplanting into your growing beds.

Photo credit: Trays of pots growing on bark mulch, Kale (bottom) and beets (top) grown as midsummer transplants - both Carl Wilson

Cool to Hot update

Flea beetles are a concern on tomatoes that were set out in May before weather was settled. These plants were stunted from the cold nights and have struggled to begin rapid growth even with the last week of hot weather.

Key to overcoming flea beetle feeding is to promote rapid growth of transplants and seedlings. Flea beetles jump from the soil and attack lower leaves first (photo right). If a transplant grows rapidly as did this tomato set out June 5 (see photo left), they overcome injury. For details and control suggestions for flea beetles that infest tomato family, cabbage family and other plants, see the CSU Extension fact sheet Flea Beetles.

Cilantro flowering has promoted more questions than usual this season. The quick change from cool to hot weather caused plants to rapidly develop flower stalks. Both temperature and day length influence flowering. In hot weather during the long days of summer, cilantro rapidly produces flower stalks with ferny foliage as opposed to the desireable flat leaves (photo shows both).

Plants induced to bolt produce flowers and set seed in four to six weeks from time of sowing. If you purchase transplants, they can quickly start to flower too. Grow plants in cooler shade to delay flowering. Sow a succession of cilantro seed every few weeks through the summer to produce a constant supply of the herb. In cooler spring weather, cilantro will keep in the leafy stage weeks to a month longer.

Note that if plants go to seed, you can make coriander spice from grinding the seed instead of harvesting cilantro leaves.

Photo credit: Flea beetle injury lower tomato leaves, Tomato transplant outgrowing flea beetle injury, Cilantro - All Carl Wilson

Hail NO!! - But for some unfortunately YES

June is always an unsettled weather month in between cool May and hot July. Hail has already been a worry for growers and some have already taken their licks. A June 8 storm nailed Ft. Collins and a short pelting got a vegetable project I'm working on in Denver on June 13.

Vegetables with broad leaves take it hard as evidenced by the broccoli photo right. Soil may also crust afterwards as seen in this photo from a clay soil northeast of Ft. Collins. With the heavy rains that frequently accompany hail, it is often best to stay off the soil until it dries out to avoid further compaction. There is little you can do at that point anyway. Once soil dries, cultivation to break up crusts may be helpful.

Hoops for low tunnels with floating row cover fabric at the ready may offer some protection if you're on the spot to pull up covers when hail threatens. If hail stones are large, fabric may be shredded and protection value likely decreases.

Patience is a virtue after a hail storm. Once it is time to water again, consider weak fertilizer in the water to add to the stimulus for new growth delivered by the hail pruning. If plants aren't responding after a few weeks, remember the possibility of early July seeding of the 50 to 60 day vegetables for fall harvest.

Vegetable plants are resilient following hail and growers can only imitate that quality.

Photo credit: Hail damage on broccoli, Soil crusting following hail, Low tunnels and row cover fabric - All Carl Wilson

To Mulch or Not

Vegetables are sensitive to environmental changes and the recent mix of hot and cold weather has had effects not just on transplanting warm season vegetables as mentioned last post. Some early season crops have already started to produce flower stalks. Remove and use the space to seed or transplant other vegetables maximizing production. Selecting a succession vegetable from a different plant family is good crop rotation practice.

If lettuce bolts for example, planting a rotational root vegetable such as carrot contributes to soil health as would adding compost before seeding. While carrots are easier to seed when weather is cooler, seeding is possible even in hot weather.

Carrots require 14 to 21 days to germinate. The chances of the seedbed drying out in this time are greater than with 7 days to germination seed. There is simply more time for something to go wrong whether it's windy weather or an irrigation problem that leaves soil dry.

Mulching with floating row cover fabric is one good solution for most seeded crops. To further increase chances of success with a many days-to-germination crop such as carrots, try doubling the mulch cover. Place grass clippings on top the fabric. Water easily percolates through both to wet the soil.

Periodically check under the fabric for signs of germination particularly once the 14 day mark approaches. Clippings are easily gathered when lifting the fabric and can be used elsewhere in the garden or in compost. Clippings alone generally are not used with carrots because they entangle with the ferny foliage.

As for mulching elsewhere in the garden in early June, definately avoid mulching peppers. It may be tempting to apply mulch during tranplant establishment but mulch delays soil warming. Wait until early to mid July to mulch peppers so soil thoroughly heats. This can make the difference between a good versus a poor or no harvest of peppers.

As for other warm season crops, it may be early to mulch them too. Efforts are probably better placed on proper watering and fertility to get plants established and hasten growth so they can outgrow flea beetle invasion that is common this time of year. More information on control of this insect can be found in the CSU Extension fact sheet, Flea Beetles.

Photo credit: Lettuce flowering, Seeding carrots, Double mulching with grass clippings over fabric - all Carl Wilson.